Absinthe (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Weed – Artemisia absinthium;
(ii) Parts Used: Whole plant;
(iii) Processing: As for whole plant;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Yellow-green (alum); gold (chrome); soft green (blue vitriol); khaki (iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent for all shades but yellow-green with alum may fade in strong sunlight.
Acorn (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Nuts from oak from various species – Quercus;
(ii) Parts Used: Whole nuts;
(iii) Processing: As for nuts;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Tan to medium brown (chrome); dark brown (iron – strong bath); golden brown (chrome and tin);
(v) Fastness: Excellent but colors may darken with time.
Alder (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Small clumped weed, tree or shrub – Alnus rugosa;
(ii) Parts Used: Leaves, bark (twigs), roots;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Leaves give – yellow (alum); yellow-green (alum and blue vitriol); olive green (blue vitriol); tan (iron); yellow-orange (tin). Bark and twigs give – tan to rosy brown (chrome and baking soda); dark brown (iron). Roots gives – greyish-brown (chrome and iron); variations of greyish-charcoal shade (iron or iron mordant in an iron pot – strong bath);
(v) Fastness: Excellent for all dyes from leaves, bark, and roots. Browns may darken with time.
Amaranth (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Weed, annual – Amaranthus retroflexus;
(ii) Parts Used: Whole plant;
(iii) Processing: As for whole plant, alone or mixed with similar weeds;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Soft yellow-green (alum); strong chartreuse (tin); brown (chrome and iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent with alum and tin mordants; fair to good with chrome.
Anil (Natural Dye): A West Indian shrub, Indigofera suffruticosa, of the legume family, having elongated clusters of small, reddish-yellow flowers and yielding indigo (a purple color).
Apple (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Fruit tree – Malus
(various species);
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh leaves, bark, roots, trimmings from the fruit;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Leaves – pale yellow (alum); gold (chrome); rust (chrome and tin); strong yellow-orange (tin); soft grey (iron). From bark and roots – yellow-tan (alum); medium rose tan (chrome); dark brown (chrome and iron); grey brown (blue vitriol). From skins and trimmings of fruit in a strong bath – pale yellow (alum); soft tan (chrome);
(v) Fastness: Fair.
Arrowhead (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Aquatic wildflower – Sagittaria latifolia;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh leaves, tubers;
(iii) Processing: Leaves as for fresh leaves. The tubers are scrubbed and sun dried;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Leaves – a soft yellow (alum); gold (chrome); orange-rust (tin); Tubers – old gold (chrome); rusty orange (tin);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Ash (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Tree, hardwood – Fraxinus americana and F. nigra;
(ii) Parts Used: Leaves; bark (collected from deadfalls, pruned branches or firewood);
(iii) Processing: As for each part;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Leaves – soft yellow (alum); bright yellow (tin) medium dull grey (chrome and iron); beige (blue vitriol). Bark – rose tan (alum and chrome); brown (chrome and iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Aspen (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: tree, hardwood – Populus tremuloides, Populus grandidentata;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh leaves, twigs;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Leaves – clear yellow (alum); bright yellow-orange (tin); beige (blue vitriol); gold (chrome); Twigs – soft grey (blue vitriol and iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Aster (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Flower, annual and perennial – Aster frikartii, Aster novi-belgii, Aster memoralis;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh blooms, separated by color or used in a combined bath;
(iii) Processing: As for fresh flowers;
(iv) Colors Obtained: From domestic varieties, all blooms in the blue-violet range: yellow (alum); yellow-green (blue vitriol and iron); grey (chrome); bright yellow (tin). From wild varieties, all blooms pink to mauve, no stem or leaves – yellow-beige (alum); tan (chrome); greyish-green (blue vitriol and iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent for domestic varieties; good for wild species.
Bachelor’s Button (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Flower, perennial: domestic and wild – Centaurea cyanus;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh flowers. With wild species, the whole plant may be used;
(iii) Processing: Blooms as for flowers (can be mixed with similarly colored flowers of other genera); whole plant as for whole plant;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Flowers – yellow (alum) to beige; bright yellow (tin); gold to tan (chrome). From whole plant – chartreuse (alum and tin); grey-green (blue vitriol and iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent. Chartreuse from the whole plant bath may change to dull yellow-green upon exposure to light over prolong period of time.
Banana (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Fruit – Musa;
(ii) Parts Used: Skins from mature plant;
(iii) Processing: Chopped skins covered in water and place in a warm spot;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Beige (alum); dark brown (blue vitriol); tan (chrome); warm gold (tin); grey-brown (iron);
(v) Fastness: Good.
Barberry (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Ornamental and wild shrub – Berberis various species;
(ii) Parts Used: Leaves or bark;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Strong yellow dye is obtained without the use of mordants;
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Basswood (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Shade tree – Tilia various species;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh leaves;
(iii) Processing: Leaves as for leaves;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Leaves – strong yellow (alum); brilliant yellow (tin); gold (chrome); taupe (iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Bayberry (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Ornamental shrub – Myrica pennsylvanica;
(ii) Parts Used: Leaves;
(iii) Processing: Leaves as for fresh leaves;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Strong yellow (alum); gold (chrome); brilliant yellow (tin); greyish-green (iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent for all but grey-green (iron) which faded in the light after several weeks exposure.
Bean (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Garden vegetable – Phaseolus;
(ii) Parts Used: Bean vines of any species;
(iii) Processing: Chop the vine and leaves as finely as possible and cover with water, leaving in a warm location for several days;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Beige to yellow-beige (alum); tan (blue vitriol) brownish-grey (chrome); bright gold (tin); greyish-brown (iron); grey-green (blue vitriol and iron processed at low temperature);
(v) Fastness: Fair to good for all shades. The gold (tin) was the most fade resistant of colors tested.
Bedstraw (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Wildflower, weed – Galium boreale and other species;
(ii) Parts Used: Flowers, leaves and roots;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Flowers and leaves – yellow; roots – red;
(v) Fastness: Good.
Beech (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Hardwood tree – Fagus grandifolia;
(ii) Parts Used: Leaves, nuts, bark from firewood or felled trees;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Leaves – yellow (alum); rust
(in a strong bath, tin); gold (chrome); tan (blue vitriol); greyish-tan (iron); Bark – yellow tan (chrome and alum); brown (chrome and tin);
(v) Fastness: Excellent for leaves, good for bark colors.
Beet (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Vegetable – Beta vulgaris;
(ii) Parts Used: Leaves, root of the vegetable, canned, pickled, or fresh;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Leaves – in a strong bath, yellow (alum and tin); tan (chrome and vinegar); Roots of fresh beets – tan (alum) and red;
(v) Fastness: The shades from the leaves were moderately wash fast and light fast. The tan (alum) from the root was quite fast.
Begonia (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Flowering bulb – Begonia various species;
(ii) Parts Used: Faded, wilted or frost bitten blooms;
(iii) Processing: Collect by color range or mix shades, cover with water and allow to soak for several days. Strain cooked out blooms;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Green (iron) using mixed orange, red and rust blooms; yellow-orange (tin and alum) from frost bitten blooms mixed in color; gold (chrome); greenish-grey (iron);
(v) Fastness: Good – especially the yellows and gold.
Birch (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Hardwood tree, ornamental – Betula various species;
(ii) Parts Used: Leaves, bark;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Leaves – yellows (alum); golds (tin); tans (chrome); Outer bark – pale yellow to soft tans (blue vitriol and chrome); inner bark – orange (tin); purplish brown (iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent for all leaves shades, good for bark colors.
Blackberry (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Wild and cultivated fruit – Rubus allegheniensis;
(ii) Parts Used: New shoots with leaves; mature canes, cut up; fall blackberry leaves;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Fruit
(very ripe, strong bath) – pink-tan, orchid, and purple, using sugar and flour in dye bath; Fresh leaves – yellow (alum); bright gold (chrome); soft orange (tin); Purple autumn leaves – grey (iron); brown (chrome); Mature canes – same as for fall leaves; New shoots – yellow-green (alum and blue vitriol); warm golden brown (chrome); bright yellow green (alum and blue vitriol); warm golden brown (chrome); bright yellow-green (tin); greyish-green (iron).
(v) Fastness: Excellent for all shades.
Black-eyed Susan (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Wild and cultivated flower, perennial – Rudbeckia various species;
(ii) Parts Used: Flowers or flowers and leaves;
(iii) Processing: As for fresh flowers;
(iv) Colors Obtained: From wild species, flower heads and some leaves in a moderate dye bath – deep olive-green (iron); avocado green (blue vitriol); light greenish yellow (alum and blue vitriol);
(v) Fastness: Excellent – perhaps the most fast of all greens obtained from common flowers.
Bloodroot (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Woodland flower – Sanguinary canadensis;
(ii) Parts Used: Root;
(iii) Processing: Root is dried and finely chopped place in a dye bath of water for two days. Dye bath raised to a simmer for two hours;
(iv) Colors Obtained: tan-orange (alum); tan-pink
(vinegar); red (tin) – but various from rose to barn red;
(v) Fastness: Fairly fast.
Burdock (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Prickly weed, biennial – Arctium minus;
(ii) Parts Used: Large leaves from first years growth;
(iii) Processing: Shed, tear and chop and cover with boiling water, allowing to sit a day or so in a warm spot and the proceed as for leaves or for whole plant;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Yellow (alum); tan
(vinegar); yellow-green (alum and iron); strong yellow (tin)
(v) Fastness: Good.
Burningbush (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Ornamental shrub – Euonymus atropurpurea;
(ii) Parts Used: Bark in the form of twigs;
(iii) Processing: As for bark;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Orange-tan (alum and tin); pink-tan
(vinegar in a strong dye bath using wild species);
(v) Fastness: Good.
Butter-And-Eggs (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Wild flower, perennial – Linaria vulgaris;
(ii) Parts Used: Flowers or whole plant except the perennial root;
(iii) Processing: As for whole plant;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Flowers – yellow; Whole Plant – yellow-green (alum and blue vitriol); chartreuse (tin); greenish-grey (iron);
(v) Fastness: Good.
Butternut (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Hardwood tree – Juglans cinerea;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh leaves; husks and bark;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Fresh leaves – yellows, tans, and yellow-greens; Husks alone – strong yellow (alum); yellow-orange (chrome and tin); orange (tin); brown (iron); grey-brown (blue vitriol); Bark alone – similar shades but paler and slightly less fast than colors obtained from husks;
(v) Fastness: Excellent for shades of husk; good for shades of bark.
Calendula (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Annual, garden flower – Calendula officinalis;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh or frost bitten blooms;
(iii) Processing: As for flowers;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Fresh flowers – yellow (alum); yellow-tan
(vinegar); gold (salt); From frost bitten blooms – brilliant yellow-orange (tin); brown drab (iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Carrot (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Wildflower, vegetable – Daucus carrota var. sativa;
(ii) Parts Used: Domestic garden tops; Wild Queen Anne’s lace blooms or the whole plant;
(iii) Processing: Chop and tear up tops and process as leaves; process Queen Anne’s lace as for whole plants;
(iv) Colors Obtained: From tops – green (blue vitriol, strong bath); green shade (tin); Medium bath of tops – bright yellow (alum); dark gold (blue vitriol); orange gold (chrome); brown (iron); bright chartreuse (tin); From Queen Anne’s lace, the whole plant – yellow green (alum and tin); beige (blue vitriol); yellow-grey (iron); tin (chrome);
(v) Fastness: The shades from domestic carrot tops are very fast but the greens may become altered after prolonged exposure to light – some turn greyer, and some darker, more like avocado.
Cattail (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Marsh and swamp plant, perennial – Typha latifolia;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh leaves, roots, flower spikes;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: New shoots – yellow (alum); yellow-green (alum and blue vitriol); bright yellow-gold (chrome); bright yellow (tin); Roots – tin
(vinegar); yellow (alum and salt); Flower spikes – beige (alum); gold (chrome); brown (iron);
(v) Fastness: Leaves, excellent; roots, good; flower spikes, good.
Cedar (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Evergreen shrub or tree – Thuja occidentalis;
(ii) Parts Used: Foliage of wild or ornamental varieties;
(iii) Processing: Collect foliage tips cover with water and soak for two days – strain off foliage, proceed with dyeing;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Foliage – bright yellow (alum); yellow-orange (tin); gold (chrome); tan to brown (iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Chamomile (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Annual or perennial weed – Matricaria maritime, Matricaria chamomilla, Anthemis cotula, Anthemis arvensis;
(ii) Parts Used: For smaller species use the whole plant; just flowers or leaves may be used for larger species (e.g. M. maritime;
(iii) Processing: As applicable for flowers, leaves or whole plants;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Whole plant – strong yellow (alum); brilliant yellow (tin); rich gold (chrome); yellow-green (iron); Leaves – colors are more green than yellow for each mordant; Flowers colors are mostly yellow and gold with each mordant;
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Chard (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Garden vegetable – Beta;
(ii) Parts Used: Green leaves;
(iii) Processing: As for fresh leaves in a strong dye bath;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Beige to soft yellow
(vinegar); tan (iron); soft yellow-green (blue vitriol);
(v) Fastness: Good.
Cherry (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Fruit and ornamental tree – Prunus various species;
(ii) Parts Used: fruit of wild or domestic varieties; leaves of wild or domestic varieties; barks and roots of wild, pruned or diseased ornamentals;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Fresh leaves, chokecherry – yellow-green (alum); beige (blue vitriol); gold (chrome); grey (iron); light gold (tin); Fruit, chokecherry – tan to grey
(vinegar and salt); pinkish cast to taupe (alum and tin); Bark, chokecherry – medium grey (iron); purplish grey (alum);
(v) Fastness: Leaves, excellent; Bark, excellent; Fruit, good to fair.
Chestnut (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Deciduous tree, ornamental – Castanea, Aeculus hippocastanum;
(ii) Parts Used: Leaves, bark, green nut husks, nuts;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Horse chest nut leaves – yellow (alum); gold (chrome); grey-tan (iron); Green nut husks – yellow-green (tin); grey (iron); brown (chrome); Nuts – light tan
(vinegar and alum);
(v) Fastness: Excellent for leaves; good for husks and nuts.
Chicory (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Perennial wildflower – Cichorium intybus;
(ii) Parts Used: Flowers, leaves, whole plant, roasted root;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Whole plant – yellow-green (blue vitriol); yellow-tan (alum); green (iron); tan (chrome); Roots – light brown (alum); medium dark brown (chrome in medium bath); deep brown (iron); khaki (blue vitriol bloomed in tin);
(v) Fastness: Excellent for whole plant shade and all root colors.
Chive (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Perennial herb – Allium shoenoprasm;
(ii) Parts Used: The green foliage;
(iii) Processing: Chop fine and soak in water to cover for a day or so and then cook out;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Pale yellow to medium yellow (alum); soft yellow-green (blue vitriol);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Chokecherry (Natural Dye): Classification: Prunus virginiana – see cherry.
Cinquefoil (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Shrub, perennial flower – Potentilla;
(ii) Parts Used: Blooms for shrubs or wildflowers, whole plant (wild), root of P. palustris;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Flowers and domestic shrub – soft yellow (alum); Root – red;
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Clematis (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Flowering vine, wildflower – Clematis;
(ii) Parts Used: Flowers, leaves and vines;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: From domestic vine, faded blooms – yellow-green (alum); green (iron); chartreuse (tin); Vines and leaves – grey-green (iron); brown (chrome); tan (blue vitriol);
(v) Fastness: Excellent for vines and leaves; good for blooms.
Clover (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Wild flower, perennial – Trifolium pratense, Melilotus alba;
(ii) Parts Used: Either species – blooms, blooms and leaves, whole plant;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: White sweet clover (flowers and leaves) – medium yellow (alum); gold (chrome); orange (tin); tan (iron); soft green (blue vitriol); Red clover (flower heads) – strong yellow-green (alum); brilliant chartreuse (tin); soft green (blue vitriol); Clovers processed after frost give olive-green and khaki shades if whole plant is used;
(v) Fastness: Excellent for both species.
Coffee (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Ground bean – Coffea arabica;
(ii) Parts Used: Coffee grounds used in a drip pot;
(iii) Processing: As for coffee grounds;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Warm tan
(vinegar); medium brown (chrome); grey tan (iron); Using twice as much coffee or half as much fiber will result in darker shades;
(v) Fastness: No method gives light fastness. However, fiber left to soak two days in a strong bath gives wash fastness.
Coltsfoot (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Perennial, wildflower – Tussilago farfara;
(ii) Parts Used: flowers and leaves;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Flowers – yellow (alum); bright gold (tin); dark gold (chrome); tan
(vitriol); soft beige-grey (iron); Leaves – yellow (alum); grey (blue vitriol); tan (chrome); taupe (iron); yellow-green (tin);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Coreopsis (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Garden flower, some annual, some perennial – Coreopsis tinctoria;
(ii) Parts Used: Flowers, blooms, and stems after frosts;
(iii) Processing: As for flowers;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Fresh flowers – bright yellow (alum); bright orange-yellow (tin); rusty orange (chrome); Flowers collected after frost – dull gold (alum); dull rust (chrome and tin); brown (chrome and iron). For olive-green, use frost-bitten flower heads, leaves and stems with an iron mordant.
(v) Fastness: Excellent for all shades.
Corn (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Garden vegetable – Zea;
(ii) Parts Used: All parts of the plant;
(iii) Processing: Shed, tear or chop all parts used. If dyeing with cobs, break them in two and soak in water for several days;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Husks and leaves in a strong bath – soft yellow (alum); tan (chrome); greyish-tan (iron); soft yellow-green (blue vitriol) bloomed in tin; Cobs – pale beige
(vinegar and chrome);
(v) Fastness: Husks and leaves, good; cob, fair.
Cranberry (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Cultivated and wild fruit – Vaccinium macrocarpon, Vaccinium oxycoccus;
(ii) Parts Used: Berry or juice;
(iii) Processing: As for berries;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Juice – beige
(vinegar); pinkish-tan (alum and tin); taupe (iron); grey (chrome);
(v) Fastness: Fair for all, except grey which was quite fast.
Cucumber (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Garden vegetable – Cucumis;
(ii) Parts Used: Vine and leaves;
(iii) Processing: As for leaves;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Warm yellow-beige
(vinegar); pale yellow (alum); gold (chrome); bright yellow (tin); grey-tan (iron); tan (blue vitriol);
(v) Fastness: Good.
Daffodil (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Flowering bulb – Narcissus various species;
(ii) Parts Used: Faded blooms from any narcissi species, mixed colors;
(iii) Processing: As for fresh flowers;
(iv) Colors Obtained: From mixed daffodil, jonquil, and narcissus blooms, in white and yellow (soaked out for three days) – soft yellow (alum); medium gold (alum and chrome); bright yellow (tin); old gold (chrome and iron); grey (iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Dahlia (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Garden flower – Dahlia;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh or faded blooms;
(iii) Processing: As for flowers;
(iv) Colors Obtained: From faded, fuchsia-colored dahlia blooms – strong yellow-green (baking soda); yellow (alum); dark gold (blue vitriol); green (iron); Red and Orange blooms – bring yellow-orange (tin); rust (chrome and tin); Magenta and Purple heads – grey-green (iron); green (blue vitriol bloomed in tin); brown (chrome and iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent, but the greys and greens may change in hue slightly.
Daisy (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Wildflower – Chrysanthemum leucanthemum;
(ii) Parts Used: Whole plant;
(iii) Processing: As for whole plant;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Soft-yellow (alum); bright yellow-green (tin); beige
(vinegar); chartreuse (baking soda); gold (chrome); dull pale green (iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Dandelion (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Weed, wildflower – Taraxacum officinale, Leontodon autumnalis;
(ii) Parts Used: Leaves, blooms (separately or together), roots;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Flowers only – yellow (alum); bright gold (tin); dark gold (chrome); tan (blue vitriol); soft beige-grey (iron); Leaves – yellow-green (alum); chartreuse (tin); warm tan (iron); gold (chrome); greyish green (blue vitriol); Roots – tan
(vinegar and salt); gold (alum); gold-brown (baking soda); grey (iron); bright gold (tin); brown (chrome);
(v) Fastness: Good.
Delphinium (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Garden flower, perennial – Delphinium;
(ii) Parts Used: Flower spikes;
(iii) Processing: As for each flowers;
(iv) Colors Obtained: From purple flowers – bright yellow (tin); soft green (blue vitriol); pinkish-tan (iron);
(v) Fastness: Good.
Dill (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Herb, annual – Anethum graveolens;
(ii) Parts Used: Dill plant, flower head, and stalk;
(iii) Processing: Chop or shred the plant, and cover with water allowing mixture to soak out in two or three days. Stir occasionally and let it sit in a warm place;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Soft beige
(vinegar, medium bath); soft yellow (alum, strong bath); strong yellow gold (tin, strong bath); medium dark gold (chrome, strong bath); soft grey-green (blue vitriol, saddened in iron, strong bath);
(v) Fastness: Good.
Dock (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Weed perennial – Rumex crispus;
(ii) Parts Used: Whole plant, leaves, young plant, roots, seeds and stems from mature plant;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Fresh, leaves, stalks or whole plant – yellow (alum); bright yellow-green (tin and blue vitriol); gold (chrome); greyish green (iron and blue vitriol), tan
(vinegar); Mature reddish brown whole plants – warm beige (alum); medium brown (blue vitriol); medium gold (chrome); dark brown (iron); bright yellow-gold (tin);
(v) Fastness: Excellent for all shades.
Dogwood (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Ornamental trees and shrubs – Cornus florida, Cornus alternifolia;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh leaves, fall leaves, red bark, or roots;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Fresh leaves – yellow (alum); gold (chrome); beige-tan
(vinegar); Autumn leaves – pinkish-beige (alum, vinegar); brown (iron and chrome); Roots – yellow-gold (alum); warm tan (chrome);
(v) Fastness: Good for all colors.
Dulse (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Seaweed – Rhodymenia palmata;
(ii) Parts Used: Use all the dulse, kelp or seaweed;
(iii) Processing: Chop or shred dulse and soak in salt water covered for several days. Resulting shades as listed below will alter if fresh water is used;
(iv) Colors Obtained: With dulse in a strong bath – medium warm tan
(vinegar); taupe (baking soda); soft warm beige (alum); grey-tan (iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Elderberry (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Cultivated and wild shrub – Sambucus candadensis;
(ii) Parts Used: Leaves, fresh fruit;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: The leaves give a good range of yellow, tans, golds, and browns. From berries and fruits – softish pink (alum); pinkish-tan (chrome); blue with purple tinge (iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent for colors from leaves, poor for colors from fruit.
Elm (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Ornamental hardwood – Ulmus americana;
(ii) Parts Used: Leaves, bark;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Leaves – yellow (alum); tan
(vinegar); yellow-green (baking soda); gold (chrome); Bark – medium grey-brown (chrome); dark grey-brown (iron); warm tan (salt and alum); beige-tan
(vinegar);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Evening Primrose (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Wildflower, biennial – Oenothera biennis;
(ii) Parts Used: Blooms or whole plant;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Flowers – yellow (alum); brilliant yellow (tin); bright gold (chrome); Whole Plant – yellow-green (alum and blue vitriol) greyish-green (iron); chartreuse (alum bloomed in tin); tan (chrome);
(v) Fastness: Good for blooms; excellent for whole plant.
Fern (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: None-flowering plants, embryophytes – Pteridium aquilinium, Matteucia struthiopteris and others;
(ii) Parts Used: The leafy fronds at various stages of maturity;
(iii) Processing: As for any other leaf;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Struthiopteris collected in July – soft lime-green (alum and blue vitriol); yellow-green (alum, bloomed in tin); bright green (alum, blue vitriol, bloomed in tin); From the same species picked in September – gold (chrome); soft gold (alum); bright gold (alum and tin); brown (chrome and iron);
(v) Fastness: Good to excellent; some variance.
Fir (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Coniferous softwood tree – Abies balsamea;
(ii) Parts Used: Tips of branches from mature or young trees; cones;
(iii) Processing: Tear up the branch tips or larger branches so they are in small pieces, cover with water and soak put for two dyes. Cook out branches and strain off the liquor. Process cones as would nuts;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Fresh fir tips from mature branches – gold (alum and vinegar); tan (blue vitriol); warm brown (chrome); bright gold (tin); Cones – tan to medium brown (alum and chrome); grey (blue vitriol and iron); beige (alum and vinegar); warm tan (baking soda);
(v) Fastness: Excellent. Browns may darken if processed at a temperature above a bare simmer.
Forsythia (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Flowering shrub – Forsythia various species;
(ii) Parts Used: Flowers; or use stems and other cuttings after pruning;
(iii) Processing: As for flowers;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Yellow (alum); bright yellow (tin); bright gold (chrome bloomed in tin); With daffodils: dull yellow (alum); deep yellow (tin); warm tan (chrome and iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Fungi (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Non-flowering plants Polyporaceae family;
(ii) Parts Used: The whole fungus;
(iii) Processing: Chopped up and soaked in water to one to three days and if the fungi does not soften, trying pouring boiling water over it;
(iv) Colors Obtained. Most fungi give shades of yellow, beige, tan, greyish yellow, light brown, dark brown and gold;
(v) Fastness: Excellent for all but dark brown.
Gale (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Woody shrub – Myrica gale;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh leaves and twigs; young or mature leaves, with or without twigs;
(iii) Processing: Tear or shred leaves and twigs, soaking for two or three days, stirring the mixture down occasionally;
(iv) Colors Obtained: New leaves, without twigs – yellow (alum); brilliant yellow (tin); strong gold (chrome); New leaves with twigs – yellow-green (alum); yellow-grey (iron); brown (chrome); Mature leaves, with twigs – strong brown (chrome and iron); olive-green (blue vitriol, saddened in iron); warm tan (alum); Mature leaves without twigs give good greens with alum, blue vitriol, iron and tin;
(v) Fastness: Good, but the greens are soft or pale may grey slightly with time.
Geranium (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: House and garden flower – Pelargonium;
(ii) Parts Used: Faded flower heads; heads with some leaves added to the bath;
(iii) Processing: As for flowers;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Blooms, mixed colors, no leaves – green (baking soda); light green (blue vitriol); tan (iron); bright green (tin, alum); grey (chrome, iron); Blooms, mixed colors, with leaves – olive-green (iron); strong medium grey (alum, iron); khaki to brown (chrome); greenish-grey (blue vitriol);
(v) Fastness: Excellent. All shades had an interesting and attractive depth of color.
Gladiolus (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Flowering bulb – Gladiolus;
(ii) Parts Used: Faded blooms (no stalks);
(iii) Processing: As for flowers;
(iv) Colors Obtained: From light flowers – yellow (alum and vinegar); beige (blue vitriol); soft yellow-gold (chrome); bright yellow (tin); beige—grey (iron); Dark shades (red, purples); green (iron and blue vitriol); bright yellow-green (alum bloomed tin);
(v) Fastness: Good for dark shades; excellent for light colors.
Goldenrod (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Perennial weed, wildflower – Solidago juncea and other species;
(ii) Parts Used: Flowering tops and whole plant, at any stage of maturity;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: May be used to dye white, grey and brown fibers to produce fascinating results on darker yarns. Flowers used without leaves produces yellows, golds and tans. Slightly immature blooms produce yellower shades than those, which are fully open. Using whole plants gives yellow-greens and greens with mordants such as blue vitriol and iron. A good avocado to olive-green can be obtained using all the plant except the bloom, with blue vitriol and iron as mordants. For browns, use mature blooms and leaves with chrome and blue vitriol. Tin produces bright, sharp golds and often a bronze unequalled in clarity;
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Grass (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Lawn grass – various species;
(ii) Parts Used: Freshly cut grass clippings;
(iii) Processing: Soak out clippings in water to cover several hours before making dye; use enough to make a strong dye bath;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Clear strong yellow (alum); brilliant yellow (tin); gold (chrome); tan (blue vitriol); soft grey (iron); alum and tin give a yellow-green;
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Hawthorn (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Tree-shrub – Crataegus;
(ii) Parts Used: Mature fruit;
(iii) Processing: Crush fruit, soak out for two or three days, stir, and bring to simmer, cook for 30 minutes and strain off the mush;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Soft rich yellow (alum); strong medium gold (chrome); bright yellow-orange (alum, bloomed in tin); khaki (iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Heal-All (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Perennial weed, wildflower – Prunella vulgaris;
(ii) Parts Used: Whole plant;
(iii) Processing: As for each whole plant;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Soft yellow (alum); medium brown (blue vitriol); orange-gold (chrome); medium grey (iron); brilliant gold (tin);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Hemlock (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Coniferous tree – Tsuga canadensis;
(ii) Parts Used: The fresh tips of hemlock boughs; bark;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Tips collected in mid-summer – bright yellow (alum); strong brilliant yellow (tin); bright gold (chrome); warm brown (chrome and iron); Bark – gives reddish-brown;
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Hollyhocks (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Garden flower, perennial – Althaea rosea;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh flowers;
(iii) Processing: As for flowers;
(iv) Colors Obtained: From mixed shades (but mainly magenta, red and orchid) – soft pinkish-beige (alum); taupe (iron); warm tan (chrome); light green (blue vitriol); blue (from red blooms, with alum and tin);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Horsetail (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Non-flowering, perennial – Equisetum arvense;
(ii) Parts Used: Green foliage which appears following the spore stem;
(iii) Processing: As for fresh leaves;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Soft green (alum and blue vitriol); light green (alum); yellow-green (blue vitriol); bright dark yellow (chrome); brilliant medium yellow (tin); grey-green (iron);
(v) Fastness: Good to excellent.
Hydrangea (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Flowering shrub – Hydrangea;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh flowering heads;
(iii) Processing: As for flowers;
(iv) Colors Obtained: From white and pink flowers – beige (alum); medium warm brown (chrome); grey (blue vitriol); Blue flower heads – yellow (alum); yellow-green (blue vitriol);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Indigo (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Tropical herbaceous plant – Indigofera tinctoria; Subject of a blog and so will not be covered here.
Iris (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Domestic and wild flower – Iris various species;
(ii) Parts Used: Blossoms from any species; roots from yellow iris;
(iii) Processing: Treating blossoms as for fresh flowers. The roots should be chopped and soaked out in water to cover before processing;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Blue flag rhizomes – yellow-tan (alum); soft grey (iron); Blue flag blooms – yellow (alum); yellow-green (blue vitriol); grey (iron);
(v) Fastness: Good; rhizome colors show good fastness.
Ivy (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Climbing vine – Hedera helix;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh leaves;
(iii) Processing: As for leaves;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Soft yellow (alum); bright yellow (tin); tan (chrome);
(v) Fastness: Good.
Joe-Pye-Weed (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Perennial weed, wildflower – Eupatorium maculatum, Eupatorium;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh flowers heads or whole plant;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Purple flat-topped flower clusters – medium yellow (alum); bright gold (chrome); sharp yellow (tin); Whole plant – yellow-green (alum); green (blue vitriol and iron); grey (iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Juneberry (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Shrub, small tree – Amelanchier various species;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh leaves, fresh blossoms, berries;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: From blossoms – a warm brown (alum and tin); lemon yellow (alum); soft green (blue vitriol); From leaves – yellow-green (alum); medium green (blue vitriol); brown (chrome); grey (iron); brilliant yellow-orange (tin);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Knapweed (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Perennial weed, wildflower – Centaurea nigra;
(ii) Parts Used: Flowering heads or whole plant;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Flowers – yellow (alum); yellow-green (blue vitriol); gold (chrome); Whole plant – greenish-grey (iron); tan (blue vitriol);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Lamb’s Quarters (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Weed, annual – Chenopodium album;
(ii) Parts Used: Whole plant;
(iii) Processing: As for whole plant;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Yellow-tan
(vinegar); soft yellow (alum); soft green (blue vitriol); grey (iron); tan (chrome);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Larch (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Coniferous tree, deciduous – Larix laricina;
(ii) Parts Used: Fall leaves (gold); fresh twigs; cones; bark;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Needles – warm yellow tan (chrome); Fresh twigs – brown (chrome); Cones – tan
(vinegar and salt); Inner bark – warm grey with a bluish tinge (iron);
(v) Fastness: Good for all shades.
Lettuce (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Leafy vegetable – Lactic;
(ii) Parts Used: Leaves;
(iii) Processing: As for fresh leaves;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Soft yellow (alum); gold (chrome); green (blue vitriol); avocado-green (iron); bright yellow-green (tin);
(v) Fastness: Excellent for non-greens; the greens greyed a little in time.
Lichens (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Non-flowering plants – various genera and species; Subject of a future blog and so will not be detailed here.
Lily (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Perennial, domestic and wildflower – Hemerocallis fulva;
(ii) Parts Used: Blooms, roots;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Fresh blooms – yellow (alum); rust (alum and chrome); burnt orange (chrome and tin); Roots – yellow-orange (alum and tin);
(v) Fastness: Good.
Lupin (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Perennial, domestic and wildflower – Lupinus;
(ii) Parts Used: Flowering heads, flowers and leaves or whole lupin plant;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Light color blooms (white, pink, orchid) give yellow-green shades if just flowers are used, and greens if leaves are used. Blue and purple blooms – green and grey-green (alum); green (blue vitriol, iron);
(v) Fastness: Fast but highly variable and quite likely to change in color.
Maple (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Ornamental hardwood tree – Acer various species;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh leaves, autumn leaves, bark;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Fresh leaves – yellow (alum); beige
(vinegar); warm tan (chrome); grey-green (iron); soft green (blue vitriol); Fall leaves – warm rich tan (chrome and tin in a strong bath); Bark – medium brown (chrome); bright dark brown (chrome and tin); rose-tan (alum); medium grey-brown (iron); Twigs – reddish-tan (alum and chrome);
(v) Fastness: Excellent for all.
Marigold (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Annual, garden flower – Tagetes various species;
(ii) Parts Used: Flowers, separated by color or used all together, either fresh or faded; severely frost-bitten blooms;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Fresh blooms, light-colored flowers (yellows) – clear light yellow (alum, short processing, low heat); medium bright yellow (alum, longer processing); rich gold (alum, processed at high heat, with vinegar added to bath) Fresh blooms – orange and rust flowers – orange (tin); burnt orange to rust (chrome, bloomed in tin); brown (chrome, sadden in iron); Frost-bitten blooms, mixed colors, in a copper boiler lined ith tin; green (blue vitriol); brown (chrome); grey (iron); Faded blooms – dark color in a brass pot; olive-green (blue vitriol); khaki (chrome); bronze (tin);
(v) Fastness: Excellent for all shades, although the dark colors may change over a period of time.
Mint (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Perennial herb – Mentha piperita, Mentha spicata;
(ii) Parts Used: Whole plant;
(iii) Processing: As for whole plant;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Soft yellow (alum); beige-tan (blue vitriol); gold (chrome); yellow-orange (tin); tan-grey (iron);
(v) Fastness: Good.
Mountain Ash (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Deciduous ornamental tree – Sorbus Americana and others;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh leaves, fresh berries or fruits;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Golden-tan (alum); warm tan (blue vitriol); bright dark gold (chrome); soft grey-brown (iron); bright yellow-gold (tin); Berries – salmon-pink (alum); rose-tan (chrome);
(v) Fastness: Excellent for dyes from leaves and fruits.
Mullein (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Biennial, weed, wildflower – Verbascum thapsus;
(ii) Parts Used: Flowering heads; flowering heads and fresh leaves; flowers, leaves and stalks;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Soft yellow (alum); bronze (blue vitriol); gold-bronze (chrome); grey (iron); bright yellow (tin);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Mushroom (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Non-flowering plant – various genera and species. This will be a subject of a future blog and so will not be detailed here.
Mustard (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Annual wildflower, weed – Sinapis arvensis, Brassica kaber;
(ii) Parts Used: Whole plant;
(iii) Processing: As for whole plant;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Pale yellow (alum); pale yellow-green (blue vitriol); tan (chrome); soft grey (iron); medium yellow (tin); gold (alum and tin);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Nasturtium (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Annual, garden flower – Tropaeolum majus;
(ii) Parts Used: Blooms (fresh or as they fade);
(iii) Processing: As for flowers;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Faded blooms , mixed shades – yellow-beige (alum); yellow-tan to gold (chrome); grey (iron); bright gold (tin); yellow-green (blue vitriol);
(v) Fastness: Good.
Nettle (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Weed – Urtica dioica;
(ii) Parts Used: Whole plant;
(iii) Processing: Chop first and soak out in water cover overnight or for a day or two;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Yellow-green (alum); strong yellow-green (blue vitriol); gold (chrome); greyish-green (iron); chartreuse (tin); L. purpureum collected for dyeing after it has turned reddish-purple – rosey-brown (chrome); warm tan (alum); pinkish-grey (iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent for all shades from fresh nettle or purple nettle; good for colors from purple nettle in the fall.
Oak (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Hardwood and ornamental tree – Quercus;
(ii) Parts Used: Acorns; fresh or fall leaves; bark;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: See acorns; Fresh leaves – yellow (alum); tan (blue vitriol); gold (chrome); Fall leaves – tan (alum); medium brown (alum and chrome); rusty tan (tin); Bark – gold (alum); bright gold (chrome); strong yellow (tin); grey (iron filings, horse shoes, and blue vitriol); reddish-brown
(vinegar and tin); Oak bark combined with sumac fruiting cones and nails yielded a strong dark grey;
(v) Fastness: Fresh leaves, excellent; barks, excellent; fall leaves and acorns are quite fast but all browns are likely to change and darken with time.
Onion (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: vegetable – Allium cep; it will be featured in a post and so is not detailed here.
Pansy (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Annual garden flower – Viola – various species;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh or faded flowers;
(iii) Processing: As for fresh flowers;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Maroon, blue and purple flowers – tan
(vinegar); pinkish-beige (alum); gold (chrome); grey (iron); Mixed flowers, faded allow to soak in water to cover for two weeks – soft yellow (alum); brilliant yellow (tin); warm bright gold (chrome); lovely soft grey (iron); warm tan (blue vitriol);
(v) Fastness: Good. The shades obtained from fermented flowers allowed to soak two weeks were quite fast to light.
Parsely (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Herb, annual or biennial – Petrosilinum;
(ii) Parts Used: Leaves and stems;
(iii) Processing: As for fresh leaves;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Soft yellow (alum); bright gold (chrome); bright yellowish-green (tin); yellow-grey (iron);
(v) Fastness: Good.
Parsnip (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Vegetable – Pastinaca;
(ii) Parts Used: Green leafy tops;
(iii) Processing: As for fresh leaves;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Weak bath – lovely clear yellow (tin); Medium bath – dull yellow (alum); gold (chrome); tan (blue vitriol);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Pea (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Vegetable – Pisum sativum, Lathyrus japonicus;
(ii) Parts Used: Domestic pea: vines; wild peach pea: whole plant;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Domestic pea, pods – beige
(vinegar); light tan (chrome); tan (blue vitriol); Domestic pea, vine – yellow (alum); bright yellow (tin); Beach pea, whole plant – yellow (alum); gold (tin); yellow-green (blue vitriol); dark gold (chrome and alum); yellow-grey (iron); taupe (chrome and iron);
(v) Fastness: Domestic pea pods and vines good; Beach pea, excellent.
Pear (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Ornamental fruit tree – Pyrus communes;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh leaves, alone or combined with leaves from other fruit trees; fresh peeled skins;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Leaves – soft lemon-yellow (alum); gold (chrome); bright yellow-orange (alum and tin); beige (blue vitriol); grey-tan (blue vitriol and iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent for leaves.
Pearl-Everlasting (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Perennial wildflower – Anaphalis margaritacea;
(ii) Parts Used: Flowering heads or whole plant;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Whole plant – strong yellow (alum); chartreuse (alum bloomed in tin); gold (chrome); yellow-green (blue vitriol and iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Peony (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Garden flower, perennial – Paeonia;
(ii) Parts Used: Faded blooms;
(iii) Processing: As for flowers;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Mixed colors colors of blooms – yellow (alum); sharp yellow-gold (tin); strong medium gold (chrome); bronze (blue vitriol); orange-tan (iron and chrome);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Petunia (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Garden flower, annual – Petunia;
(ii) Parts Used: Faded blooms;
(iii) Processing: As for faded flowers;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Mixed shades – yellow-tan (alum); bronze (blue vitriol); gold (chrome); yellow-green (iron); sharp gold (tin);
(v) Fastness: Good, but not fast to light.
Pigweed (Natural Dye): See lamb’s quarters.
Pine (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Coniferous tree – Pinus;
(ii) Parts Used: Needles, cones, bark;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Fresh needle – yellow-beige (alum); Brown needles – tan
(vinegar); gold (chrome); brown (chrome and iron); Cones – warm tan (alum and chrome); Bark – warm tan with reddish tinge (alum, chrome); pinkish-red (alum, bloomed in tin);
(v) Fastness: Good for all; excellent for shades from bark.
Platain (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Weed – Plantage major;
(ii) Parts Used: The whole plant; roots;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained. From new leaves – soft green (alum); gold-bronze (blue vitriol); yellow-green (chrome); grey (iron); grey-green (tin);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Plum (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Ornamental and fruit tree – Prunus;
(ii) Parts Used: Leaves, bark, fruit, and/or skins;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Fresh leaves (from domestic dwarf plum); yellow (alum); bright yellow-orange (tin); rust (alum and chrome); gold (chrome); Bark – reddish-brown (alum and chrome); taupe (alum saddened in iron); Fruit, mixed with cherries – soft pink (alum); rose (chrome); pinkish-grey (iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent for all but those obtained using the fruit were only light fast for several days and faded noticeably when washed.
Popular (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Hardwood tree – Populus nigra, var. italica;
(ii) Parts Used: Leaves;
(iii) Processing: As for leaves;
(iv) Colors Obtained: yellow (alum); bright yellow-orange (tin); bright gold (chrome); rust (tin and chrome); brown (chrome and iron); brown (blue vitriol);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Poppy (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Perennial garden flower – Papaver orientale;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh or faded blooms, alone or in combination with other flowers;
(iii) Processing: As for flowers;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Red-orange Icelandic poppies – warm beige (alum); yellow-gold (tin); dark gold (chrome); pinkish-tan (blue vitriol); warm grey (iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Primrose (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Perennial garden flower – Primula;
(ii) Parts Used: Flowers;
(iii) Processing: As for flowers;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Mixed shades – pale yellow (alum); bronze (blue vitriol); warm tan (chrome); bright yellow (tin);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Privet (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Deciduous shrub – Ligustrum ibolium;
(ii) Parts Used: Freshly picked leaves, free from twigs; berries;
(iii) Processing: Soak out in water to cover several hours before dyeing;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Leaves – bright clear yellow (alum); yellow-green to chartreuse (tin); gold (chrome); bronze (blue vitriol and iron); yellowish-grey (iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent for shades from leaves.
Purslane (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Weed, wild food – Portacula oleracea;
(ii) Parts Used: Whole plant;
(iii) Processing: As for whole plant;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Yellow (alum); beige
(vinegar); tan (blue vitriol); yellow-green (alum and tin); gold-brown (chrome);
(v) Fastness: Good.
Radish (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Vegetable, weed – Raphanus;
(ii) Parts Used: Wild radish – whole plant; Domestic varieties – green tops;
(iii) Processing: As for each category. A strong bath recommended for domestic tops;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Wild radish – Soft yellow (alum and tin); bright yellow-gold (chrome and tin); beige-tan (blue vitriol); soft grey (iron); Domestic radish tops – medium green with iron in a strong bath;
(v) Fastness: Good.
Ragwort (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Wildflower, weed – Senecio various species;
(ii) Parts Used: Whole plants or flowers alone;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Whole plant – yellow (alum); bright yellow (tin); bright gold (chrome); grey-beige (iron); yellow-tan (blue vitriol); Using flowers gives shades that are yellow, yellow-green or chartreuse;
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Raspberry (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Wild and cultivated fruit – Rubus idaeus, Rubus strigosus;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh or frost bitten leaves; new shoots or mature cranes; berries if desired;
(iii) Processing: As for berries – see blackberry;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Colors obtain are almost identical to those from blackberry, but the fruits, in a strong bath with sugar and flour, will give a rose-tan or rose-grey with vinegar. Fruits steeped in water will give a pinkish shade to wool fibers pre-mordanted with alum, but the color is not fast;
(v) Fastness: Highly variable with berries; colors from leaves and shoots are excellent.
Rhododendron (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Flowering every-green shrub – Rhododendron;
(ii) Parts Used: Leaves;
(iii) Processing: As for fresh leaves;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Leaves pick early summer – beige
(vinegar); bright yellow (alum); gold blue vitriol; bright rust (chrome); bright orange (tin); khaki to olive-green (iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Rhubarb (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Vegetable – Rheum;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh leaves;
(iii) Processing: As for fresh leaves;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Brilliant orange (tin); orange-yellow (alum); rust (chrome);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Rose (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Cultivated and wild flowering shrub – Rosa;
(ii) Parts Used: Cultivated roses; faded petals, pruned stems; Wild roses – faded or fresh blooms, new shoots, fresh leaves picked as matures in summer; hips;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Mixed shades of hybrid tea petals, fermented – yellow (alum); medium brown (chrome); gold (blue vitriol); bright yellow-orange (tin); grey (iron); Fresh shoots (cranes) and leaves, wild rose – yellow-green (alum); gold (blue vitriol); greenish-bronze (chrome); medium brown (iron); bright yellow-orange (tin);
(v) Fastness: Excellent for shades from cranes and leaves; good for shades from fresh petals; good to excellent for shades from fermented petals.
St John’s Wort (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Perennial wild flower, weed – Hypericum perforatum;
(ii) Parts Used: Flowering tops whole plant;
(iii) Processing: As for whole plant;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Flowering tops alone – give yellows and gold; The Whole plant – yellow-green (alum); bronze (blue vitriol); gold (chrome); medium yellow-green (iron and tin);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Seaweed (Natural Dye): See Dulse.
Shasta Daisy (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Perennial, garden flower – Chrysanthemum various species;
(ii) Parts Used: Blooms, any color;
(iii) Processing: As for fresh flowers;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Soft yellow (alum, below simmer); yellow-gold (chrome); bright yellow (tin);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Sorrel (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Weed, perennial – Rumex acetosella;
(ii) Parts Used: Whole plant;
(iii) Processing: As for whole plant;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Soft yellow-green (alum and blue vitriol); medium dull green (blue vitriol, saddened in iron); chartreuse (tin); tan (chrome);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Spearmint (Natural Dye): See mint.
Spinach (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Annual, vegetable – Spinacia oleracea;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh leaves or seed stalks;
(iii) Processing: As for leaves;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Yellow (alum); bright yellow-green (tin); yellow-green (blue vitriol); gold (chrome); tan
(vinegar); grey (iron);
(v) Fastness: The yellow-greens have fair light fastness the tan and grey are quite fast to light and washing.
Spruce (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Coniferous ornamental, lumber tree – Picea;
(ii) Parts Used: Needles, branch tips, cones, bark;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Fresh needles – yellow (alum); gold (tin); bronze (chrome); Branch tips – bright yellow (tan); green (iron); Cones – reddish-tan (alum and chrome); brown (iron); Bark – yellow-tan (alum); reddish-brown (chrome, strong bath); taupe (iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent for all.
Squash (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Vegetable – Cucurbita;
(ii) Parts Used: Vines, skins, peelings;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Vines – an
(vinegar); grey-green (iron); Fermented squash peelings – yellow (alum); yellow-orange (chrome); bright yellow (tin); yellow-grey (iron); rust (chrome and tin);
(v) Fastness. Good for shades from the vines; excellent for shades from peelings.
Sumac (Natural Dye): Also known as sumach. Plants: any temperate or subtropical shrub or small tree of the anacardiaceous genus Rhus, having compound leaves, clusters of green flowers, and red hairy fruits. See also poison sumach. Dyeing: a preparation of powdered leaves of certain species of Rhus, especially R. coriaria, used in dyeing and tanning. Tanning: a preparation of powdered leaves of certain species of Rhus, especially R. coriaria, used in dyeing and tanning. Via Old French from Arabic summÄq.
Sunflower (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Annual, domestic and wildflower – Helianthus annuus;
(ii) Parts Used: Flowers; stalks and leaves; seeds;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: From fresh flowers – yellow (alum and tin); gold (chrome); yellow-green (alum, after rinse in baking soda); chartreuse (alum, after rinse in iron, no heat); Stalks and leaves – yellow-green (alum and tin); grey (iron); bronze (blue vitriol); Seeds – tan (chrome);
(v) Fastness: Good for all.
Swiss Chard (Natural Dye): See chard.
Tamarack (Natural Dye): See Larch.
Tansy (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Wildflower, herb, weed – Tanacetum vulgare;
(ii) Parts Used: Flowering heads; leaves, whole plant;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Flowers give strong yellows, gold and warm yellow-tans; leaves give yellow-green and green; the whole plant gives yellow-green, bronze, and olive-green. Keep the temperature of the dye bath below simmer for light yellows, and use a strong bath and iron for greens;
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Tea (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Herbal beverage – Thea sinensis;
(ii) Parts Used: Used or fresh tea leaves, bags, or left over beverage (without milk added to it); the addition of lemon or sugar will not matter;
(iii) Processing: Collect tea; add sufficient water if necessary to keep bags wet; add a small amount of white or cider vinegar to reduce odour; cook out for one or two hours strain off bags (or leaves);
(iv) Colors Obtained: Generally, a medium bath of Orange Pekoe bags – beige (alum); light tan
(vinegar); tans medium browns (chrome); taupe (blue vitriol); grey or beige (iron); rose tans (alum and chrome);
(v) Fastness: Variable. Fibres left to cool overnight after dyeing in a tea or coffee bath seem to fast more than those rinsed immediately.
Tomato (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Fruit – Solanum lypcopersicum;
(ii) Parts Used: Tomato vine (after harvesting fruit);
(iii) Processing: As for cucumber and squash vines;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Fresh vines – yellow-tan
(vinegar); good soft yellow (alum); bright yellow (tin); Vines and green fruit – yellow-green (alum and blue vitriol); medium dark green (iron); Frost-bitten vines and mature fruit – good brown (chrome);
(v) Fastness: Good to excellent, somewhat variable using fresh vines.
Tulip (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Flowering bulb – Tulipa;
(ii) Parts Used: Faded flowers;
(iii) Processing: As for flowers;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Yellow and white tulips mixed with daffodils – yellow (tin); gold (chrome); yellow-grey (iron); Red and maroon tulips – reddish-tan (alum and vinegar); grey (iron); warm brown (blue vitriol and chrome);
(v) Fastness: Good.
Vetch (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Wildflower, weed – Vicia cracca;
(ii) Parts Used: The whole plant;
(iii) Processing: As for whole plant;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Soft yellow (alum); tan (chrome); bright yellow (tin); gold (blue vitriol); green (iron). A strong bath is recommended;
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Violet (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Wildflower – Viola various species;
(ii) Parts Used: Leaves and flowers;
(iii) Processing: As for flowers;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Yellow (alum); bright yellow-green (tin); tan (chrome); gold (blue vitriol); grey-green (iron);
(v) Fastness: Good.
Walnut (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Deciduous ornamental tree – Juglans nigra;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh leaves, nuts, green nut husks or hulls, bark;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Leaves – yellow (alum); bright yellow (tin); gold (chrome); brown (chrome and iron); Hulls – brown (chrome); dark brown (chrome and iron); taupe (blue vitriol); warm tan (alum); bright rusty brown (alum, bloomed in tin); The nuts give beige to tan Bark – brown (chrome) – not as rich as shade from hulls;
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Washing Soda (Natural Dye): Washing soda is hydrated sodium carbonate. It is also called sal soda. An alkaline substance, it is very strong and should be used with care in order not to damage the fiber. When added to an Umbilicaria pot, washing soda swings the red colors toward bluish purple. Stronger than baking soda, washing soda should be thoroughly dissolved before adding it to the dye bath and the temperature of the pot must not must be kept below simmer. Alkalines may impair the quality of the fiber when in contact with it above temperatures exceeding 200oF or 95oC.
Willow (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Deciduous tree, wild and ornamental – Salix various species;
(ii) Parts Used: Leaves,; twigs and bark;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: Leaves of a weeping willow – yellow (alum, strong bath); yellow-green (alum); bright yellow (tin); greenish-yellow (blue vitriol); gold (chrome); soft light grey (iron);
(v) Fastness: Good for leaves,; excellent for twigs and bark.
Woad (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Biennial – Isatis tinctoria;
(ii) Parts Used: Fresh leaves;
(iii) Processing: As for leaves;
(iv) Colors Obtained: The blues from woad require no mordants. They are softer and less strong than those of indigo;
(v) Fastness: Good.
Yarrow (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Perennial, wild and cultivated flower – Achillea various species;
(ii) Parts Used: Flowering heads or whole plant;
(iii) Processing: As for each category;
(iv) Colors Obtained: A. millefolium, whole plant – bright yellow (alum); brilliant yellow (tin); strong clear gold (chrome); yellow-tan (blue vitriol); yellow-grey (iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.
Zinnia (Natural Dye):
(i) Classification: Annual, garden flower – Zinnia;
(ii) Parts Used: Flowers, separated by clors or used in a mix;
(iii) Processing: As for each flowers;
(iv) Colors Obtained: In a strong bath of mixed colors – yellow (alum); bronze (chrome); bright gold (tin); khaki (blue vitriol); grey-green (iron);
(v) Fastness: Excellent.




